This time, I embarked on a motorcycle tour to fully enjoy the natural beauty of Hokkaido. With wide open roads, stunning scenery, and relaxing campgrounds, I’ll introduce the route I took. Hokkaido offers breathtaking views that can only be experienced by motorcycle, and here’s the route I followed:
Heading North to Hokkaido: The Niigata to Otaru Route
Taking a ferry is essential for touring Hokkaido. I opted for the Niigata to Otaru route this time. Most riders from the Kanto region probably use the Oarai to Tomakomai route, but the Niigata to Otaru route has its perks, even though it’s a bit of a detour:
- It’s cheaper compared to the Oarai to Tomakomai route.
- The ferry departs at 12:00 (Niigata) and arrives at 4:30 the next morning (Otaru), allowing for an early start to your tour.
- While it’s a longer journey, the route offers great touring spots and scenic landscapes to enjoy along the way.
I set off on my journey in late July. With the weather forecast being unpredictable, I ended up booking the ferry just before departure, but I was still able to secure a reservation for the ferry departing from Niigata.
Day 1: Departure for Niigata
I set off at 4:30 a.m., passing through the Venus Line in Nagano, heading toward Niigata.
Through Venus Line to Niigata
The Venus Line is a famous scenic mountain road stretching about 76km from Utsukushigahara Highland in Nagano to Tateshina Highland, known for its panoramic views. It’s the perfect spot for motorcycle touring.
I set off early in the morning, passing through the Venus Line on my way to Niigata. The entire route to Niigata was on backroads.
The landscape of vast highlands and majestic mountains is breathtaking. The gently winding roads and moderate elevation changes make it an enjoyable ride. The scenery around Utsukushigahara Highland and Shirakaba Lake is especially stunning on clear days. The lush greenery from early summer to autumn adds to the pleasure of the ride.
The route to Niigata isn’t just a way to reach the ferry—it’s an integral part of the adventure.
Encountering a Closed Campground
Since I had booked the 12:00 ferry for the next day, I looked for a campground in Niigata. I found a free one called Oike Ikoinomori in Joetsu City, but unfortunately, it was closed for the day.
Surrounded by beautiful greenery and water, this campground was a sight to behold. I’ll definitely return someday!
Address: 116-1 (Oike Ikoinomori Visitor Center) Hinenuma, Kubiki-ku,Joetsu City, Niigata Prefecture 942-0216
Open: April to the end of November
Fee: Free (with a voluntary donation of ¥1,000)
Phone: 025-530-3160 (Oike Ikoinomori Visitor Center)
Nigata Tourism Navi:https://niigata-kankou.or.jp/spot/8474
Overnight at Kaikatsu Club (Internet cafe)
With my camping plans foiled, I decided to head to the Kaikatsu Club in Nagaoka. This facility is familiar to riders, offering private rooms, showers, and a chance to relax. Despite the change in plans, I was able to rest well and prepare for the next day.
Day 2: Niigata Port and Ferry Boarding
Enjoying a Seafood Bowl at the Morning Market
With some time before the ferry departure, I stopped by Niigata’s morning market and had breakfast at Chuo Shokudo. The seafood bowl there was incredible! Packed with fresh seafood, it was a special treat that only a port city like Niigata can offer.
I splurged a bit on the special seafood bowl (2,100 yen), but after the effort of riding backroads to Niigata, I felt it was well-deserved.
Address: 711 inside Niigata Central Wholesale Market, Myogadani, Konan Ward, Niigata City
Business hours: 5:30 AM – 2:00 PM
Closed: Sundays
Ferry Journey
As the departure time approached, the ferry terminal started filling up with motorcycles, even though it was a weekday. Many other riders were also headed for Hokkaido.
Onboard, there’s a spacious lounge, observation deck, and even a restaurant and café, making it a comfortable ride. You can also soak in the large bath to ease your travel fatigue, allowing you to rest well for the upcoming Hokkaido tour.
Note: The seas were rough that night, and the ferry shook quite a bit. While it wasn’t enough to cause seasickness, I definitely felt the movement even while trying to sleep.
Address: Yamanoshita Pier, Furuminatocho 2-20, Higashi Ward, Niigata City, Niigata Prefecture 950-0044
Website: https://www.snf.jp
Hokkaido Touring: Riding Through the Great Outdoors on a Motorcycle
Touring through the vast landscapes of Hokkaido. However, out in nature, you never know what will happen. Bad weather can turn the journey into a real challenge. Even so, riders embrace it all and keep moving forward with enjoyment.
Day 3: Otaru to Misaki Park Campground
Seafood Bowl at Otaru’s Morning Market
The ferry arrived in Otaru early in the morning. Unfortunately, it was raining. Starting a tour in Hokkaido under rainy skies isn’t ideal for a rider, but I suited up in my rain gear and pressed on.
I stopped by Otaru’s morning market to refuel with another seafood bowl. While I had already enjoyed seafood in Niigata, Hokkaido’s seafood is truly special.
I ordered the Otaru bowl at the Morning Market Restaurant—a bit of an indulgence again.
Address: 3-10-15 Ironai Otaru City, Hokkaido, 047-0031
Business hours: 4:00 AM – 2:00 PM
Closed: Sundays
Heavy Rain and Road Closures
Next, I headed to “Misaki Park Campground.” However, as I rode along the coast, the rain intensified, turning into a downpour. Additionally, I encountered several road closures along the way, forcing me to make major changes to my planned route. I ended up taking a significant detour towards Takikawa, and with the heavy rain.
Due to the heavy rain, I felt it was too dangerous to continue, so I took shelter along the way.
By the time I arrived at Roadside Station Rumoi, the rain had let up, but I had faced so many road closures along the way that I eventually had to make a detour of over 200 km.
No Reservation, Free Campground: The Stunning Location of Misaki Park Campground in Shosanbetsu
After riding in bad weather, the rain finally stopped by the afternoon, and blue skies began to peek through the clouds. By the time I arrived at Misaki Park Campground, the weather was perfect, and the exhaustion from the rain disappeared in an instant. The wide-open campground allowed me to set up my tent and enjoy some relaxing time. The sunny weather after a rainy ordeal made this camping experience extra special.
Misaki Park Campground does not require reservations and is free of charge. The location offers a fantastic view of the ocean. Although it is a free campsite where you cannot park your vehicle on the site, there’s a parking lot nearby, so if you’re lucky, you can park your bike right next to your camping spot.
With a spacious site and a refreshing ocean breeze.
Misaki Park is the perfect place to relax after a long ride, with a nearby hot spring to soothe your muscles.
Address: Toyosaki, Shosanbetsu Village, Tomamae District, Hokkaido
Open: Late April to late October
Fee: Free
Reservation/Reception: Not required
Open fires: Not allowed
A day-use hot spring is available at the nearby Shosanbetsu Onsen Hotel Misaki no Yu, just a 5-minute walk away.
Website: http://www.vill.shosanbetsu.lg.jp/shosanbetsu/kankou/キャンプ場/
Day 4: From Ororon Line to Cape Soya and the “White Road”
Ororon Line
Early in the morning, I left the campsite and headed north on the famous Ororon Line. This scenic route offers breathtaking views, with the Sea of Japan on the left and vast plains stretching out on the right, creating a beautiful contrast. Blessed with good weather, the endlessly straight road truly felt like a “dream road” for riders.
Cape Soya: The Northernmost Point of Japan
I reached Cape Soya, the northernmost point of Japan. Standing at Cape Soya, I saw the monument marking Japan’s northernmost location, and I felt a great sense of accomplishment. After taking in the expansive horizon, I took a short break.
Next, I went to the scenic spot “White Road,” located a bit away from Cape Soya. This white gravel road stretches out into a mystical, somewhat otherworldly landscape. It’s a unique road that you can only experience in Hokkaido.
After that, I continued on the stunningly straight “Enusa Line,” which provided a smooth and enjoyable ride. The Enusa Line was the most scenic road of this trip.
Relaxing at Kutcharo Lakeside Campground
I spent the night at Kutcharo Lakeside Campground, where I could unwind and relax. The peaceful campsite, situated by the lake, was a perfect place to escape the daily grind. Watching the sunset reflected on the lake was beautiful, and it was incredibly refreshing to be immersed in nature. This was a truly luxurious moment, enjoying the vast nature of Hokkaido while camping during my motorcycle trip.
At Kutcharo Lakeside Campground, you check in at the lakeside store. It’s an incredibly affordable campsite, only costing 400 yen, but the location is unbeatable.
Having a nearby onsen is a huge help for relaxing after a day of riding.
Address: Kutcharo Lakeside, Hamatonbetsu Town, Esashi District, Hokkaido
Open: May to October
Phone: 01634-2-4005
Day-use onsen available nearby at Hamatonbetsu Onsen Wing
Day 5: Abashiri Prison Museum and Yobitoura Campground
Riding from northern Hokkaido to eastern Hokkaido, I aimed for the Abashiri Prison Museum. The weather on this day was overcast, with occasional light rain throughout.
Abashiri Prison Museum
At the museum, I explored a former prison, getting a glimpse into Hokkaido’s history. Walking through the facility, you can reflect on the harshness of Hokkaido’s pioneering days and its historical context. The exhibits, which vividly recreate the stories of prisoners who endured grueling labor and the lives of the time, offer a rare and valuable experience.
Yobitoura Campground: No Reservation & Free
Later, I stayed at Yobitoura Campground. Located by Lake Abashiri, this campground offers a peaceful atmosphere, with the sunset reflecting off the lake. Spending the night in the great outdoors of Hokkaido was a perfect way to rejuvenate my tired body.
Address: Yobito, Abashiri City, Hokkaido 099-2424
Reservation/Reception: Not required
Fee: Free
Inquiries: Abashiri City Tourism Department: 0152-44-6111 (Ext. 303)
Website: https://visit-abashiri.jp/stay/
Day 6: The Road to Heaven – Shiretoko Pass – Lake Mashu – Bihoro Pass
This day, I headed to the popular “Road to Heaven Observatory.” The straight road looks like it’s stretching into the sky, creating a magical scene. Riding this road on a bike, I felt as if I had become one with the sky.
Note: When coming from the Abashiri side, you’ll be riding from the opposite direction of the start point.
After that, I rode along the scenic drive of Shiretoko Pass, crossing the Shiretoko Peninsula. The breathtaking views of the Sea of Okhotsk and the surrounding mountains below left me in awe at every turn. Riding through this stunning landscape, I fully enjoyed the vast nature of Hokkaido.
Lake Mashu
Known as the “Misty Lake Mashu,” I was fortunate to have clear weather, and the mist lifted, offering an unobstructed view of the lake. I was captivated by the blue, crystal-clear waters and lost track of time admiring the scene.
Road to Bihoro Pass
The road leading to Bihoro Pass is a winding one, offering exhilarating riding. From the observatory, you can see Lake Kussharo, Japan’s largest caldera lake, with its imposing grandeur. On clear days, the blue sky reflecting off the lake creates a beautiful, picture-perfect landscape.
I ended the day by riding to Kitami and checking into a Kaikatsu CLUB.
Day 7: Mikuni Pass – Naitai Highland Farm – Taiyo-no-Sato Park
My plan for this day was to ride from Kitami through Mikuni Pass, Naitai Highland Farm, and finally, Taiyo-no-Sato Park Campground. Unfortunately, the day started with rain, making it tough for riding.
Mikuni Pass: No Scenic Views
Mikuni Pass is known as the highest pass in Hokkaido, and I had been looking forward to some incredible views. However, the entire area was shrouded in thick fog, and visibility was almost zero. No matter how hard I strained my eyes, I couldn’t see the surrounding scenery. What should have been a majestic landscape of mountains and valleys turned into a surreal scene of disappointment.
Naitai Highland Farm: Lost in the Fog
Next, I headed to Naitai Highland Farm, which is known for its expansive grasslands. Normally, visitors can enjoy sweeping views and grazing cows. But once again, thick fog reduced visibility to almost nothing. I couldn’t even feel the vastness of the farm, as it felt like I was simply riding through a fog bank. When the weather doesn’t cooperate, even the most anticipated spots can lose their charm, which is always frustrating.
I did manage to catch a glimpse of some cows through the fog.
Rest at Taiyo-no-Sato Park Campground
I arrived at my destination, Taiyo-no-Sato Park Campground, and set up camp in the rain. This free campsite is surrounded by tranquil nature, making it a great spot to unwind. Reflecting on the long day, I finally had a moment to relax.
Despite missing out on the scenic views due to rain and fog, the time spent in nature still provided a valuable reset. For a rider, even challenging weather can become part of the touring experience, and that’s part of the joy of the journey.
The tarp came in handy for setting up camp in the rain.
Address: Yamabe Nishiju-san-sen 32, Furano, Hokkaido
Open: May 1 to October 31
Fee: Free
Reservation/Reception: Not required; just sign in at the reception desk near the entrance.
Website: http://furano-taiyonosato.com/camp/
Day 8: To Otaru Port
The final day of my Hokkaido touring adventure. I had time before the 5:00 p.m. ferry from Otaru, but the weather forecast predicted rain all day. I wanted to explore Hokkaido for as long as possible, but ultimately, I gave up touring and headed straight for Otaru Port.
The ride to Otaru Port in heavy rain made for a tough last day.
I arrived in Otaru in the morning and spent the last rainy day relaxing at a local super sento (public bathhouse).
Conclusion: Riding Across the Vast Land of Hokkaido
This Hokkaido touring adventure was filled with vast nature and breathtaking scenery. The roads, landscapes, and the relaxed moments at campsites—things only a motorcycle rider can fully appreciate—are what left the biggest impressions on me. I highly recommend everyone experience the wide-open skies and land of Hokkaido on a bike! Look forward to the next trip!
See you on the next ride!